0185 Circadian Rhythm of Rock Climbing Specific Finger Strength

Abstract Introduction Circadian rhythm influences various aspects of athletic performance; however, the sport specific effects in rock climbing are not well studied. This study aimed to evaluate circadian changes finger strength climbers. may have important implications for timing training and challenging goals. Methods Participants completed two rounds testing on same day (morning 7-9 am evening 5-7 pm) consisting maximal pulls a polyurethane block (18 mm flat edge) anchored dynamometer (TindeqTM). were cued keep 4 fingers without using thumb given attempts each hand with highest load recorded session. Demographic data, experience level, sleep quality (Promis Sleep short form.), chronotype (Morningness-Eveningness questionnaire) secondary outcome analysis. Standard descriptive statistics paired t-tests performed compare morning afternoon findings. Results 10 participants testing. There was significant increase mean maximum from (M = 35.2 kg, SD 14.8) 40.1 16.1), t(9) 4.1, p .003, large effect size (Cohen’s d 1.3). The 5.0 kg 95% confidence interval 2.2 7.7 kg. remained when subdivided by sex (males n 6, .04, CI [0.4kg, 10.0] females 4, 0.48, [0.1, 9.1] kg). lacked sufficient power detect differences related other measures. Conclusion Maximum climbers greater compared suggesting influence. Rock needing peak benefit hard climbs rather than early morning. Further is needed determine if this finding seen larger groups or impacted chronotype. Support (if any) Training space supported Triangle Club, Durham NC.